Still in Switzerland and looking forward to heading North for the Scottish Hills! I still had 2 days to go, and wanted to take full advantage of the ice before leaving, so my good friend Ralf Weber and I headed to Breitandfluh to climb “Metro”. Around 3 o’clock that afternoon we had finished the abseil down and decided to use the afternoon to its fullest… a short 2 and a half hours later we finished the final pitch of “Crack Baby” and I headed home happy and ready to pack my tools for Ben Nevis!
For those who can weather the rain and snow… for those who favor mixed climbing and the art of placing traditional protection… for those, Ben Nevis is a must!
If you are preparing for Patagonia, this is the ideal place. Not only because the quality of the ice is similar, but also because of the unpredictable and unstable weather.
Thrilled, tired and a little damp : ) Stephan Rouss, Michi Wärthl, Thomas Senf, Mario Arnold, Dani Arnold and myself are now back home.
We spent the ten days at Ben Nevis, the Cairgroves and at Clen Coe climbing everything from true classics to demanding mixed routes.
Much like the opinions of Dani Arnold and Ines Papert who have also been charmed by Scotland’s Highlands, I made the journey to Scotland with immense respect and high regard for it’s climbing culture. It is unbelievable, how many hard routes there are – each and every one without a single bolt. I find it crucial, that we as climbers accept and respect these ethics.
Climbing aside, you definitely don’t want to miss visiting a Scottish Underground Pub! The Scots are “hardcore” in everything they do; may it be horrible, miserable weather or an endless night of whisky! Like with climbing: they do it with style and ethics – they aren’t the fastest but hey are built to last!