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Stephan Siegrist

Portrait of one of the most active
professional climbers in the world.


Biography

Stephan Siegrist was born 1972 in Meikirch, Switzerland. On a good day, the beautiful Bernese Alps can be seen from the small urban village just outside of Bern.

Upon completing his school studies, Stephan pursued an apprenticeship as a carpenter. Shortly after, the mountains would win Stephan over after his first ski tour awoke the passion that would later become his career. He decided to further his training – this time as a mountain guide.

Since the age of 26 years, Stephan has earned his living as a professional alpinist and mountain guide. He now lives in Ringgenberg with his wife and family.


Highlights of His Mountaineering Career

One of many remarkable achievements in his mountaineering career is having made first ascents on all 7 continents! Ascents of the great north faces of the Alps (Eiger Nordwand approx. 30 times), expeditions and projects in Northern India and Nepal, North America, Antarctica, South Africa and Patagonia.

In addition to these highlights, Stephan Siegrist repeatedly awes with his impressive and creative range of climbing projects. He excels not only in bouldering and sport climbing, but has also proven his talent in big wall, ice and mixed climbing. One of his unique talents is walking the high line and base jumping.


Main TV Productions and Cinema Films

‘Berg im Kopf’, a documentary by Mattias Affolter , 2013

‚Die Bergführer, a documentary; three teams, three summits, three adventures, Swiss Television (SRF)

Team Coach and co-climber in ‘Eiger-live’, a 33 hour broadcast on September 9th and10th, 1999.

Film documentary ‘In the Footsteps of Heckmair’: equipped with hobnailed boots and hemp ropes, Stephan Siegrist climbed the Eiger North Face just like the first summiters in 1938


Personal Productions and Publications

Book: Stephan Siegrist – Beyond the Element, 2013

Book: Stephan Siegrist – Finding the Balance, by Röbi Koller

Book: The Eiger North Face – In the footsteps of the pioneers with hobnailed boots and hemp ropes

DVD: Thalay Sagar “Harvest Moon”, first ascent on Thalay Sagar (6904 m), India, in 4 languages (German, English, French and Italian); Length: 43 min
The movie “Harvest Moon” won the Grand Prix at the Diablerets Film Festival and also won in the category “Exploits/Adventures”

DVD: Arwa Tower “Lightning Strike”, first ascent on the north face of the Arwa Tower (6352 m), India (German, English, French and Italian); Length: 50 min


More Informationen

Biography on Wikipedia (German only)

Highlights

- Har Har Mahadev, Cerro Kishtwar, Kashmir 2017

- Kilimanjaro Highline (Highlighe World Record), Tanzania 2016

- Metanoia, Eiger North Face 2016

- Corner Peak, Kashmir 2016

- Bhala (Spear) 5900m, NE Face, Copa-Kaban, Kashmir 2015

- Tupendeo 5700m, SE Pillar, Deokhal, Kashmir 2015

- Te (Kristall) 5900m, Chaprasi, Kashmir 2015

- First Ascent Kishtwar Shivling East Summit (5895m); second Ascent Khistwar Shivling, 2014

- First Ascent Shiepra (5885m); Route „Maaji“, South Face (WI3 IV 700Hm), 2014

- First Ascent Kharagosa (5840m); Route „Pinky“, East Face (M6 6a 1000Hm), 2014

- Second winter ascent of the west face of Cerro Torre,– Patagonia 2013

- Dufour Spitz High-line –Switzerland, highest highline to date in Europe, 2013

- Winter ascent of the Cerro Stanhardt. First climber to successfully achieve winter ascents of all three best known peaks of the Cerro Torre massif in Patagonia, 2012

- Matterhorn Highline, 2012

- New route “Yoniverse” on the Cerro Kishtwar as well as first ascent of the White Sapphire, Kashmir Himalaya, India, 2011

- Torre Egger, first winter ascent, Patagonia, 2010

- New route “Bärenstier” on Mont Blanc du Tacul, France, 2010

- Asan, Pik Slesova -Kirgizstan, 2009

- Route „Magic Mushroom“- Pilz, Eiger North Face; 
  first redpoint climb of the route in combination of a basejump, 2009

- Expedition Queen – Maudland (Holtanna/ Ulvetanna), Antarctica, 2008

- New route on the Eiger North Face: „La Paciencia“, 2008

- Ascent of all 4 Torres in Patagonia, 2008
  (Cerro Torre / Torre Egger / Punta Herron / Cerro Standarth)

- First ascent of the Arwa Tower North Face, in India/Himalaya, 2007

- First ascent of the northwest ridge on Thalay Sagar in India/Himalaya, 2006

- First ascent at El Chorro, sector Frontales Medias: Muchachito Bombo Inferno,
  Spain, 2006

- New route “Golden Eagle” on the south face of Aguja Desmochada, Patagonia, 2005

- Triology Bernese Oberland: North faces of the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau in 25hrs, 2004

- First ascent on the Eiger North Face “La Vida es Silbar”, 2003

- Eiger “Retro” – North Face with hobnailed boots and hemp ropes, 2002

- New route on the Eiger: “Young Spider” via the white spider, 2001

- First climb of all 6 towers of the Castleton Group in Arches National Park (Utah) 
  on one day, 2001

- First winter ascent of the west face of Cerro Torre, Patagonia, 1999